Clothing Could Mourn
Toward a Ritual Materiality of Grief, Memory, and Resistance
2025
In this speculative design proposal, clothing is no longer passive—no longer a shell we shed at day’s end. Instead, it becomes a vessel for grief. What if clothing could mourn? Not simply as a cultural signifier of loss, but as an active participant in it—a material that folds, collapses, resists, and remembers. The image presents a cloaked figure draped in excess fabric, almost consumed by it. The garment does not merely hang—it sags, as though burdened. Its weight is emotional. Its presence feels closer to a vigil than a fashion object. In this imagined future, clothing becomes a mourner—a co-griever. This proposal draws from anthropological understandings of mourning attire, particularly in Victorian and Japanese traditions, where garments were deeply codified to reflect grief’s progression (Hallam & Hockey, 2001). Yet, this concept moves beyond symbolism. It asks: could fabric itself feel? To ground the idea, we turn to affective design, where objects are embedded with emotional responsiveness (Norman, 2004). Smart textiles already register temperature, touch, and biofeedback—what if they also responded to psychological states like sorrow? Not through blinking LEDs or haptic pulses, but through more poetic material behaviors: sagging seams, stiffening collars, or fabrics that deepen in hue with prolonged sadness. This speculative mourning garment resonates with posthumanist discourse. Rosi Braidotti (2013) argues for the redistribution of affect across bodies, machines, and matter—blurring human/nonhuman boundaries. A mourning garment, in this sense, is not an accessory to grief but a co-performer in its ritual. Visually, the garment also evokes the aesthetics of resistance: oversized, weighty, and monolithic. It parallels the work of Rick Owens and Rei Kawakubo, whose garments speak more to sculptural presence than ergonomic fashion. Here, the silhouette resists readability, as if grief refuses clarity. There is also a critique embedded in this proposal. Fast fashion reduces clothing to disposability, erasing its capacity for memory. In contrast, a mourning garment insists on duration. It is slow, heavy, and difficult. In a culture that demands quick recovery and minimal display of suffering, this garment refuses. It makes sorrow visible and persistent. The proposal resonates with Jane Bennett’s “vibrant matter” (2010)—a philosophy of things that hold agency, intention, and force. Fabric here becomes an active mourner: it folds not only in response to bodies, but in relation to loss. In doing so, it shifts fashion into the realm of ritual. The garment becomes a shrine—not to death itself, but to the weight of living after. It raises questions: can clothes refuse to be worn after trauma? Can they shrink from joy, stain from memory, or collapse under silence? This speculative project does not seek to technologize grief, but to materialize it. It positions clothing as not merely what we wear, but what stays behind when we’re gone—what might still be grieving even when we’ve stopped. --------------------------------------------------References • Hallam, E., & Hockey, J. (2001). Death, Memory and Material Culture. Berg Publishers. • Norman, D. (2004). Emotional Design: Why We Love (or Hate) Everyday Things. Basic Books. • Braidotti, R. (2013). The Posthuman. Polity Press. • Bennett, J. (2010). Vibrant Matter: A Political Ecology of Things. Duke University Press. • Entwistle, J. (2000). The Fashioned Body: Fashion, Dress and Modern Social Theory. Polity Press.
